About ao textiles

ao textiles is a plant-based dye colour and design consultancy

ao textiles is a project-based research & design consultancy founded by Karen Spurgin, Penny Walsh and Emma D'Arcey. With combined experience as colourists and surface designers, ao textiles specialises in developing natural dyes for textiles in commercial production. Our sustainable plant-based colour process is unique in the industry. In partnership with Gainsborough Silk Weavers, we offer sustainable jacquard woven fabric that can be used for a range of applications, including fashion and interiors.

ao textiles has been at the forefront of natural dye research, dedicating 15 years to the development of a natural dye palette that works in conjunction with industry. Alongside their partner Gainsborough, ao textiles has developed methods that revive the heritage of natural plant-based colour while still being compatible with scalable commercial production. These techniques have been developed to the highest environmental standards possible, ensuring that they are sustainable and environmentally friendly.

Current colour palette

  • Campeche

  • Rubea

  • Pale Rubea 

  • Luteola

  • Castaneda

Sustainability Commitment

All aspects of textile production; from the replacement of synthetic colour with natural dyes to sustainably sourced silk yarn, obtained through an environmentally friendly process that does not involve the use of pesticides and plays a key role in supporting rural communities. Certified by Oeko-tex Standard 100 certification. The ao textiles dyeing process received the stamp of approval from Greenpeace International’s Detox Fashion Campaign in 2013. Using 100% sustainably sourced Oeko-tex Standard 100, Class I-IV natural dyes, which are compliant with the requirements of the ZDHC Manufacturing Restricted Substances List V2.0. Additionally, mordants and dyes are GOTS certified. The exhaustion process employed in the dyehouse reduces wastewater and dye to negligible levels. Excess heat from steam pipes is channelled via a heat exchanger into the drying cupboard to dry yarn using no additional energy. Production has been reduced to almost zero waste as all fabric is made to order. Any yarn that is not woven is donated to recycling charities and to students. Gainsborough fabrics are designed with longevity in mind and often exceed their expected life span of 25 years.